Stanford Cat Network | Bringing Home Your New Cat or Kitten

Guide to Caring For Your Adopted Cat or Kitten

Congratulations! You're the proud new caregiver for a wonderful rescued kitten or cat! To help make your transition into a new life together easier, we have put together this guide. Even if you are an experienced pet caregiver, there may be some new information here, so please take a few minutes to read over this guide.

Before You Met Your Pet
Making Your Cat Feel at Home
Feeding
Water
Litter
Playtime
Scratching Posts and Cat Trees
Training and Behavior
Fleas and Parasites
Identification
Veterinary Care
Indoors Only
Grooming
Allergies - in Humans and in Cats

1. Before You Met Your Pet

• Your cat will already be spayed or neutered unless he or she is too young to undergo surgery. In this case, the cost of the surgery is included in your adoption fee, and you will need to schedule an appointment when your kitten is 4-5 months old and your vet considers him or her ready.

• Unless you were otherwise notified, your cat tested negative for Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukemia (FeLv). If your cat tested positive, the adoption co-coordinator will go over any special care or precautions needed.

• Your cat or kitten was fed a premium cat food. Ask your adoption co-coordinator about the appropriate brand, because switching diets may upset your pet's digestion.

• All cats and kittens are litter box trained, they normally learn fastidious hygiene from their mother.

• Your cat has received the vaccinations appropriate for his or her age. If she is over 8 months old, she will require semi-annual boosters. Kittens may require additional vaccinations when they reach a certain age - your adoption co-coordinator can discuss this with you.

• Before you bring your new cat home, have ready food, dishes, scratching post or box, litter box and litter, and a carrier or crate.

2. Making Your Cat Feel at Home

a) The First Day Home

Your new cat has just spent some time living in a cage or foster home, awaiting adoption. She may not be used to large, open spaces and may become scared or overwhelmed if released into large apartment or entire house on her own. Therefore, it is best to keep her confined one room or a small area to start with.

Before you pick up your new cat, prepare the room for her arrival:

Remove any houseplants (even non-poisonous plants)
Remove any objects that may be dangerous to a cat - unstable shelves, things that could fall over if jumped on, etc.
Keep other pets out of the room for at least a few days
Place a carrier or crate in a private, quiet corner, with appropriate bedding (you may wish to use the carrier you bring your cat home in). Cats feel more secure if they have a "safe cave" to retreat to
Set out food and water, fill the litter box with litter, and arrange the items near the carrier (you may later move them gradually to other areas of the house when your cat is given access to them)

When you arrive with your new cat, go into the designated room, close the door, and set the carrier down. Open the door, and then remain nearby quietly to see if she will emerge. Don't force her to come out, let her come out on her own time. Some cats may not come out until night time. If she does not want to come out right away, make sure the food and water dishes are nearby, as is the litter box. You can demonstrate digging with a scoop so your new cat gets the idea.

b) The Next Few Days

Hiding

As a rule, cats are very upset by changes in their environment. Some cats will adjust more quickly, while others may take weeks or months. You must have the patience and understanding to allow your cat to adjust at her own pace. When you first bring her home, your cat is likely to hide - this is why you need to provide a safe, comfortable place for her to retreat to.

Try not to disturb her if she feels the need to hide, but try to spend time nearby, or try to tempt her with a favorite toy. If your cat seems nervous and afraid, do not try to pick her up or force bonding right away. You need to have patience and try to understand how overwhelming this change is for your cat!

Bonding

Spend as much time in the room with her as you can, even if you are working or doing something else. The more time you spend with your new cat, the faster and stronger the bond will form. If she does not want to be picked up, try brushing her or playing with a toy. Being picked up is a very intimidating process for a cat, and many who are very friendly and cuddly still object to the process. Place a chair in the room and try sitting and inviting the cat onto your lap instead of picking her up. Or, sit on the floor on her level. Some cats may come close to you if you sit on a bed.

Other Pets

Other pets may be introduced gradually if your cat seems to be confident and not too timid. You should keep your new cat enclosed in the crate or carrier while introducing the other pets gradually. Do not leave the pets together unsupervised until they have had several weeks of SUPERVISED interaction. This is especially important with dogs - even friendly ones. A chase scene will make future interactions much more difficult.

c) The Rest of the House

It is impossible to give an estimate of the length of time it will take before your cat is ready to have access to the rest of the house. Some cats are by nature more bold and adventurous than others. Many of the Stanford Cat Network cats have been abandoned and/or neglected before they were rescued. That experience tends to make them less confident of unknown situations. Your cat may have known real fear that many house-born kittens have never experienced, such as experiences with traffic, dogs, or wildlife.

So be patient and let your pet tell you when she is ready to explore outside her own space. Signs that she may be ready include scratching or meowing at the door and trying to run out when you open the door. When she feels at home in her own space, has explored the room thoroughly and does not hide in her "house" all the time, then you can try giving her access to the rest of the house. Continue keeping her food, water and litter where they are presently located.

Even if your cat has decided she wants to explore, she may still be easily frightened by sudden noises or too much open space. Keep your cat's own space set up exactly as it has been, so she has a refuge that is familiar to her. This feeling of familiarity is very important to cats. Try to confine her to the original room at night and when you are absent, so that she doesn't run into any trouble - especially if you have other pets.

Once your cat is relaxed and confident in her new home, you will notice that she starts paying more attention to you! For a long time, her new surroundings will overwhelm her and you may feel ignored or shunned at times. Do not take this personally, try to be understanding of how your pet must feel!

Now, you must be very careful to avoid letting your cat outdoors. Your adoption contract specified that the cat will be kept indoors at all times, unless a special exception was made. This is especially crucial during the first 6 months. If your cat escapes during this adjustment period you may never see her again! Once outside, a cat in a new home often panics and starts to run blindly, in danger of being hit by a car and getting lost. To avoid this occurrence, be vigilant about opening and closing outside doors quickly. This may be difficult if children are present, so speak to them about the importance of this matter. Also, if your house has a vestibule or double door, try to use this entrance so the inner door is closed before the outer one opens and vice versa.

3. Feeding

High quality cat foods such as Innova EVO , Nature's Variety Instinct, or Wellness may cost more per bag, but they are more digestible and therefore your cat needs to eat less of the food, costing less money overall. These foods have higher quality protein and less filler that is present in the supermarket brands such as Friskies, Whiskas, Purina, etc. If a cat eats a food with low quality protein (often derived from beaks, feet and heads of animals or from corn gluten) they absorb less usable nutrients. This not only causes poor health, it leads to greater volume of stool in the litter box and foul-smelling feces due to all the undigested matter. Supermarket brands often contain artificial colors and preservatives that can cause liver damage and allergic reactions. Feeding high quality food helps avoid medical problems such as urinary crystals and intestinal disorders. Feeding your cat the best quality food is an investment in their health for life.

Dry food should not be fed free-choice, meaning that the food bowl is always kept full. This method works for some cats, but many will over-eat given the opportunity, and become obese. If your cat is consuming more than the recommended amount (read the bag) or if your vet says that your cat is overweight, you may need to ration the food.

Obesity is unhealthy and can lead to musculoskeletal and heart problems in later life. However, NEVER starve a cat! Cats must eat on at least a daily basis, or they will experience permanent liver damage. If you feed controlled amounts, it is best to feed in 2 or 3 meals a day, but you must feed your cat at least once each day.

Canned or "wet" food is beneficial because it increases your cat's water intake (see section "water") and generally contains a higher percentage of meat than dry food, which requires a higher carbohydrate level to allow the food to bake into kibble. You may have heard the old information about dry food cleaning cats' teeth and being good for them - but recent research shows that dry food does nothing at all to clean cats' teeth, it crumbles upon the slightest pressure and cats' teeth are not designed for grinding, they tear and swallow meat. In fact, dry food with its higher carbohydrate content is more likely to stick in between your cats' teeth and cause tartar and decay! You can read more about cat nutrition at these websites: felinenutrition.net and catnutrition.org

Kittens require greater amounts of food per body weight than adult cats, because they are still growing muscles, organs, and bones. Feed kittens in 3-4 meals each day, for adult cats transition to 2-3 meals per day. It is a myth of the pet food industry that kittens and senior cat need special formulas of food. Once they are weaned, kittens eat the same thing their parents do - mice, rabbits, and other small prey. They simply need to eat more to sustain their growth rate.

4. Water

Cats need constant access to fresh, clean water. They should be encouraged to drink as much as possible. Increasing your cat's water intake helps flush the kidneys and urinary system, reducing the risk of urinary tract infections and disease. You can encourage your cat to consume more water by; feeding wet food, always keeping the water fresh, and putting out multiple water dishes - especially in a larger house. Experiment to determine what type of container your cat likes to drink out of - flat, wide dishes; cups; bowls. Also available are pet water fountains which circulate and filter water, and many cats love to drink from these.

5. Litter

Clean litter of the appropriate type is vital to your cat's health and happiness. Cats will show their displeasure with a dirty box by defecating or urinating outside the box, and you do not want to start such behavior. Also, dirty litter boxes breed bacteria which your cat will get on her paws, track through your house, and ingest. This can cause infections in your cat such as urinary tract infections, as bacteria spread from your cat's paws to urethra while your cat cleans herself.

A good rule of thumb is: if the litter box is not clean enough that you feel comfortable sticking your bare hand in there or stepping in it with your bare foot, it is not clean enough to expect your cat to walk in it either.

Most cats prefer "clumping" litter because of it sandy texture. These types of litter are easy to clean daily, because the feces and urine form clumps that are easily sifted out. There are very few litters that are free of perfumes and dust. Never use scented cat litter, a cat's sense of smell is many times more sensitive than a human's and what seems like a light scent to you is an overpowering smell to your cat. We recommend Dr. Elsey's Ultra clumping cat litter (clay), World's Best Cat Litter (corn), or some store brands of plain clumping clay that are unscented and dust free.

We do not recommend silica gel litter pearls. Silica gel is a dessicant and it is very irritating to the eyes, respiratory tract and it is dangerous to ingest. Although these types of litter claim to be dust free, handling some with your bare hands will leave your skin coated with a fine, slippery dust. Every time your cat visits the box he will get this dust on his feet and later ingest it during grooming. Also cats dislike the texture of the rock-like pearls or the sharp jagged crystals.

Likewise, wood pellets or pine litter is not recommended because of its strong smell, which tends to repel cats. Most cats strongly dislike the texture of pellets and will refuse to use such a litter.

Non-clumping "regular" litter must be completely changed every few days, and the feces must be removed daily. Litter boxes that allow air circulation are best for non-clumping litter, because it allows the wetness to dry, reducing bacteria and odor.

For more tips on how to avoid litter box problems, how to clean a litter box, and types of litter, please see Dr. Pierson's website.

6. Playtime

Playtime is fun for cat and human, and it's a great way to ensure that your cat gets important exercise! Interactive toys, such as laser pointers (avoid shining in the eyes!) and feather wands are a great way to bond with your cat while having a fun time. Safe play involves a few common sense precautions; If you notice your cat breathing heavily or panting, stop playing until her breathing returns to normal.

Do not leave toys out that your cat could choke on or swallow - this includes any string or toy containing string, elastic parts, or small possibly detachable parts. Never let your cat play with rubber bands or items smaller than a ping-pong ball. Do not leave string, yarn, or thread out, if swallowed it can wrap around intestines, requiring surgery or causing severe internal damage.

Excellent toys include: laser pointers (chase the red dot), feather wands (hide it in a drawer when unattended), stuffed catnip mice, Woolly Bullies made of real wool, old socks stuffed with catnip and knotted, cat dancer toy.

7. Scratching Posts and Cat Trees

Cats scratch surfaces as a way of marking territory and to remove old claw sheaths. It is a natural part of cat behavior, and must be accepted as such. Declawing is a cruel and unnecessary surgery, banned in the UK and other countries because it is inhumane. The adoption contract you signed specified that the cat you adopted must never be declawed. Although many vets still provide this surgery, it is becoming more and more unpopular in the USA as pet owners become educated about the procedure, which involves the removal of the last bone and tendons in each digit of the paw.

In order to avoid the destruction of furniture or carpets, immediately provide your cat with her own scratching surface. You may need to try several types to find out which one she prefers. Some variants are; sisal rope, wood, carpet, and cardboard.

Most cats prefer a tall, vertical surface to stretch up against and scratch. You can construct a simple cat tree by following the directions in our newsletter. The Purrfect Post is also tested and approved by many SCN cats!

All pet stores sell scratching posts, but the small ones are usually ignored by cats, Much preferable are the "cat trees" that often include a nest or bed of some sort. By providing your cat with her own piece of furniture, you will help avoid having her claim yours! Search the Internet for instructions on building your own - one good site is http://www.amby.com/cat_site/declaw.html.

If training and providing a scratching post do not solve your problem, there are many alternatives to declawing. Trimming your cat's claws is easy and need only be done once a month. Also, Soft Paws can be used - they are plastic covers that are glued to the claw using an adhesive similar to the one used for fake nails that humans wear. They are available in many pet food stores, or from your vet. Your vet can apply them if you are unable to do it. Contact Stanford Cat Network for help and info training your cat!

8. Training and Behavior

If you provide a scratching post and your cat still insists on going for your furniture, there are many ways to discourage this. You can spray the area with Feliway or citrus extract which cats hate the smell of. You could try one of the cat repellents sold in pet stores. Some pet stores sell an items called "sticky paws" which goes on the furniture like double-sided tape, and makes the surface unappealing to the cat.

Likewise, if you wish to train your cat not to jump on counters or observe other "house rules", it is possible to train a cat through POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT. Cats respond to rewards for good behavior.

Positive reinforcement is the best training aid, because it is effective and it encourages the cat to view you as a source of reward and not punishment. For example, reward your cat with treats, catnip, or praise for using her own scratching post - rather than punishing her for using something else.

NEVER punish your cat physically for any reason - cats do not associate such punishment with misbehavior, they only associate it with you, and will learn to fear you. A spray bottle filled with water (a clean one bought for the purpose - NOT an empty cleaner bottle) or water pistol can be used to discourage behavior such as scratching furniture, jumping on surfaces, etc. The cat must not see the bottle in use, they must think the water spray is a direct result of the misbehavior. Otherwise, the cat will know she is safe as long as she does not get caught! Training by water correction is only effective if you apply it immediately and consistently! If you are gone all day, do not expect your cat to stay off countertops. Cats are mischievous and curious by nature!

9. Fleas and Parasites

Keeping your cat indoors will avoid most instances of infestation by internal and external parasites. However, there is a chance that your cat can pick these up, especially if a dog in the house brings in fleas. Fleas must be dealt with immediately, or they may infest the house, causing great discomfort to pets and humans. Fleas also spread tapeworms and diseases.

Flea control is easy with modern treatments. Consult your vet and obtain a monthly application of a product such as Advantage or Revolution, which are applied as a drop to the skin on the back of the cat's head, and kill all life stages of fleas for up to one month. These products are very safe when used as directed. Avoid all over the counter brands of flea control because somare very unsafe and have been implicated in pet deaths and illness. If the house is heavily infested your vet may also recommend a spray for the carpet and furniture, but it is not usually necessary.

Internal parasites are detected by examination of a stool sample. Your cat's annual exam should include a check of the stool, and if worms are detected your vet will treat the cat. Many parasites can be treated with a single dose. Left untreated, internal parasites can cause severe health damage and some parasites could kill your pet.

10. Identification

Your cat or kitten received a microchip, a tiny device implanted beneath the skin between her shoulder blades. The chip has a number encoded which can be read by a special scanner, and that number is registered in a national database with your name, address, and telephone number. If your cat ever becomes lost and is turned in to a shelter or brought to a vet, most facilities scan incoming animals for a microchip. The facility then calls the AKC Companion Animal Recovery 24 hour network, and finds your contact information. If you move, remember to update your pet's registration by calling 1-800-252-7894.

The microchip is only useful when your pet is turned in to a facility that has a scanner. Your pet should wear visible identification too, even though you are keeping her indoors. There is always the chance of escape. Only use break-away collars on cats! Cats can get the collar caught and may choke in a regular collar. The collar should fit loose enough to allow 2 fingers under it, but not loose enough to come off over the head. Make sure you check the fit of the collar frequently, especially on growing kittens. Adult cats can also gain weight and outgrow a collar. A tight collar can inhibit breathing and cause great discomfort. Small tags are best for cats, or get a collar with name and phone number printed right on it.Read about the importance of fitting the collar in our newsletter.

11. Veterinary Care

Included in this package is a series of articles on cat health written by veterinarians. It is a good idea to read these over at your leisure, so you know some of the most common health problems in cats and what symptoms to watch for. Practice preventative health while your cat is young, to avoid problems as she gets older. Preventative health includes the following important areas:

Annual Veterinary Exam. A routine exam should be done yearly, to spot any potential problems early. Your vet may recommend lab analysis of blood samples for older cats, to check for signs of kidney disease or other major problems

Weekly health evaluation. Check your cat for signs of health problems, to catch them early. Ask you vet to show you what to check for.

Dental care. Tartar and plaque not only leads to gingivitis and tooth loss, but the bacteria present can cause damage to organs such as kidneys, liver and heart, shortening your pet's life. Many vets now recommend a veterinary dental cleaning every 2 years.

Feeding a premium food. Your cat is what she eats. If you ate McDonald's every day would you expect to live a long healthy life? Friskies, Meow Mix etc are junk food for cats.

Maintaining a healthy weight. Obesity is as dangerous for cats as it is for humans - make sure you cat gets plenty of exercise and does not overeat.

Vaccinations. We recommend that your adult, indoor-only cat is vaccinated with the FVRCP booster every 1-2 years, and rabies every 3-7 years. Most studies have shown that the protection from these vaccines lasts much longer than one year, and other studies have shown that in some cats too-frequent vaccinations can cause allergic reactions or injection site tumors. We do not recommend any other vaccinations except for cats at high risk for other diseases.

Preventative care will minimize your cat's chances of developing disease or illness, but nothing can guarantee her safety. Being alert to changes in her behavior and body will help you identify potential problems early, and bring her to the vet. With any illness, your cat stands a much better chance if the problem is diagnosed and treated immediately.

Emergency vet care can be an unexpected expense. It is a good idea to set aside some saving for such emergencies. Or, keep a special credit card empty for an emergency. Veterinary health insurance is also available, ask your veterinarian for information about a recommended policy.

12. Indoors Only

Although cats are smart, alert, and adroit, they are no match for the many perils that await them outside. That's why the average lifespan for an outdoor cat is 5 years, as compared to an average life span of 15 years for an indoor cat! Some people argue that it is not "natural" to keep cats inside. But domestic cats are not wild animals. They were domesticated and bred by humans, and made dependent on us. It is our responsibility now to protect them from danger.

Dangers to Outdoor Cats

• Cars: Cats are incapable of understanding something that moves as quickly as a car. They will cross roads, assuming they can outrun any danger. Outdoor cats stand a 50% chance of being killed by a car.

• Animal Attacks: Dogs, coyotes, raccoons, and other animals may attack and wound or kill cats. Other cats may fight with yours, and cause injuries that could lead to infections and abscesses.

• Disease: Outdoor cats encounter other cats, and can pick up life-threatening diseases. Many of these communicable diseases have no effective vaccine and no cure.

• Accidents: Besides car accidents, outdoor cats are in danger of being poisoned, getting caught in traps set for other animals, getting closed into buildings and starving, and countless other accidents which can easily befall a cat.

• Human Malice: Not everyone loves cats. There are those people who may torture and/or kill any they find. There are people who intentionally poison cats because they "dig up their garden", and there are sadistic people who torture and kill animals for amusement. Keep your cat safe from these sick people, keep her indoors!

• Animal Experiments: Research labs purchase cats for experiments, and some unscrupulous people will pick up pets and sell them to these companies. They will remove collars and lie about where they found the cat. Even if your pet has a microchip, the lab company may neglect to scan for chips.

Keeping your Cat Happy Indoors

• Grow "cat grass" (barley or wheatgrass) in a pot for your cat to chew. You can buy sprouted cat grass at most pet food stores, or you can grow seeds of barley, wheat, and/or oats. Some cats may vomit if they eat cat grass, if your cat does don't feed her grass.

• Build or buy a "cat tree" for climbing and watching the world. Cat trees provide fun and a lot of climbing exercise. They can compensate for a small apartment by providing vertical space. Ideally these can be placed near a window for a great view.

• Get a cat condo and/or bed so your cat has a safe "den" in which to sleep or just hang out.

• Provide lots of toys - both interactive (such as feather wands or cat charmers) and toys that the cat can play with safely herself, such as catnip mice or balls. It is best to "ration" toys or rotate them, if the cat loses interest you can hide the toy away for a while and use another one.

• Provide companionship - human or animal. Playtime and petting are very important. If your cats get along well with others, consider getting a friend - cats are social animal contrary to popular belief.

• Bird feeders can be placed in an area outside a window, to serve as a "kitty TV". Just be sure the screen and window are very secure (as they should be in any case), to avoid cats going through the screen! Fish tanks (sturdily covered) also provide great entertainment.

• Leave windows open (with very secure screens) for fresh air, sounds, and smells from outside. If possible leave a window partly open while you are away, too. But make sure the cats can't claw out the screen!

13. Grooming

Although cats clean themselves thoroughly, brushing her coat will reduce shedding on furniture and increase the health of the hair. Brushing will also reduce the amount of hair ingested by the cat, and help reduce hairballs as a result. Medium or long-haired cats need more grooming care than short haired cats, because they may form tangles and mats which they cannot remove in their own. It is important to keep your cat's hair free of tangles and mats, because these will pull on the hair, causing restriction of blood flow, and can eventually lead to serious skin problems.

Experiment with types of brushes, from "slicker" wire brushed to soft-bristled brushes, and rubber "curries" to see what your cat prefers. Brush gently but firmly in the direction of the hair growth. At first, stick to the back, since many cats have ticklish tummies and may not enjoy brushing in sensitive areas.

If your medium or long-haired cat develops mats or tangles in a sensitive area, it is still necessary to remove them. You will have to catch her in a relaxed mood, and do it as gently as possible. Special tools are sold for removing mats that minimize pulling. If you are not able to remove the mats you can bring the cat to your vet or groomer to have it done. Sometimes long haired cats have fluffy back ends, which can get dirty when they use the litter box. For sanitation reasons it is often necessary to trim fur from behind the rear legs.

14. Allergies - in Humans and in Cats

Allergies in Humans

People who are allergic to cats are actually allergic to a protein called Fel d1 found in cats' saliva, urine and feces. Cats lick their fur and the saliva dries and flakes off, and is present in the air. Unfortunately, allergies are one of the main reasons people give for giving up their pet. Most of these people do not realize that there are ways of reducing or eliminating their allergy problems. Following are several simple strategies you can use to minimize your chances of developing allergies and ways of coping with them if you have them.

If you do have allergies, use Allerpet/C - a natural enzyme product clinically proven to reduce allergy problems for cat owners.

Circulate fresh air in your home as much as possible. Open windows, change air filters on furnaces and air conditioners often.

Feed your cat a premium food, the proper balance of essential fatty acids and nutrients will keep skin and hair in optimal condition, reducing shedding and dander.

Clean litter boxes daily, if you are allergic have someone else do it or get an automatic litter box.

Get a HEPA air filter and use it in your bedroom, these filters remove 99% of all allergens from the air.

Wash cat beds, cover slips and blankets that the cat sleeps on frequently.

Brush your cat frequently and dispose of the dead hair. Have someone else do this for you if you yourself are allergic.

Wipe your cat once a week with a cloth dampened with warm water. Do not bathe her with soap, because she will lick herself more and increase the saliva on her coat. You can also purchase pre-moistened "cat wipes" at many pet supply stores.

Wash your hands after touching your pet, before eating or touching your face.

Make sure you use allergen-filter vacuum bags to avoid distributing allergens into the air when you clean.

Close your cat out of your bedroom - if you breathe allergen-free air while you sleep your tolerance during the day will be better.

Ask your doctor about allergy shots if you continue to suffer from symptoms

Allergies in Cats

Skin conditions and other symptoms may occur due to allergies in your cat. The most common type of allergies are food allergies, which can develop gradually even if your cat has been eating the same food all her life. The first thing you should try in response to possible allergies is to switch the food to a formula with few additives, try Nutro Natural Choice or Royal Canin Special 33 for Sensitive Stomachs.

Many animals develop allergies to corn, so switch to a formula that uses rice instead - check the label for corn or corn meal. It can take a few days for symptoms to clear up, but you should notice a difference within a week if the food was the culprit. Consult your vet for treatment if changing the food didn't help.